Donald Trump is destroying America with every passing second, and you have the gall to check out these awesome surfing GIFs? How dare you?
How about fuck you ? This offends me as a surfer.
One of the joys of surfing is paddling out into the lineup and all that matters is the next wave. Leaving all the problems of the world behind you on the beach. There is no politics in the lineup.
Have you ever stood up on a board ? Do you know the difference between Clark foam and Walker foam ?
If you really want to help surfing go get the homeless off the streets whose shit on the sidewalks and in the gutters washes into the storm sewers fouling the waters and closing the beaches so no one can go out into the water.
WSL @ Teahupo'o, Tahiti live right now (until 9.30 pm eastern) on Fox Sports 2 and for the next 3 or 4 days. check your local listings. Monday is scheduled to start at 1.30 pm eastern. Expecting a 10' to 12' swell with light offshores tomorrow.
Meanwhile, the wife is in PR, scheduled to leave this Wed just as the 'cane is supposed to arrive.
He was both a craftsman and an artist. Curving those 3/4" redwood stringers was no small feat. Everything cut by hand including those curved cuts in the blank. He was known for work like this. He sorta had that territory to himself up in SB back then. His only real competitor for business up there then was Tom Morey down in Ventura. Morey is the inventor of the Boogie Board. And a whole lot more surfing related things. Polypropylene fin systems, Slipcheck which was a sprayon texture coating for boards to replace wax, which it didn't. Too abrasive on the knees. We all knee paddled back then. We sprayed it on up on the nose mostly. That was back before leashes and when you would actually walk back and forth on a board rather than just stand there planted and carving.
And so much history there as well. I think back to Nat Young and one of the first modern revolutionary developments in board design with the V bottom tail.
FS2 is broadcasting the WSL daily heats live all week long from the Gold Coast in Australia this week from 6pm to 12am eastern time.
Slater just happens to be in the water right now.
Bump. Finals day ! Yesterday was washed out for some reason. It will not show up on the program guide but it is going on live now. Tide is still coming in. Glassy, with some barrel action today. This is some of the clearest water I have ever seen. Like Black's but even clearer.
So in the noodling around looking up stuff for my post below I found this video interview from a documentary about surfing in Newport Beach in the 50's and 60's. I did not wacth until after my post below. It brought back so many memories. Bob, the subject, has about 10 years on me, but the thoughts and experiences are still pretty much the same. He articulated "The Code" that I alluded to down below about how one handled themselves in the water back in the day, but he filled in all the gaps. I had a board that Dale Velzy personally shaped for me and got busted down on Pendelton more than a couple of times. I had forgotten about The Greeter in Laguna Beach. I remember him. He used to hang out around The Pottery Barn. I had no idea back then how special my time there was. I / we all thought this was normal and how everybody lived. That was not the case as we all have come to understand. Just was lucky to be in the right place at the right time.
OBTW .. the Greg MacGillivray mentioned in the video is the same Greg MacGillivray who is doing all of the IMAX movies. He started out making surfing movies way back when with his partner Jim Freeman.
